Empires, History and Patriotism.

A quote I read recently sparked off this blog:

"Patriotism is believing you live in the best country in the world - because you were born there."

We visited Philadelphia on the way up to the North Eastern States to see the fall. And of course there was another museum to visit - this time on maritime matters. And there was a refreshing change in the way that it presented an even-handed view of history. Even-handedness generally means there is more to mull over…

The one in front is a reconstruction, the one behind is the real thing.

There's a battleship outside on the water, the oldest steel hulled battleship in America still afloat, the USS Olympia, commissioned on February 5, 1895. It was involved in one of the decisive battles of the nineteenth century, one that would change the course of American history.

America first flexes its muscles on the high seas.

Probably most of you won't know the details, and most probably don't want to either.

I didn't.

But then I started reading, and it all sounded so familiar...

At that time, America was a fast growing country with big ambitions. A quote on the wall of the museum sums it up succinctly:

"We shall establish trading posts throughout the world as distributing points for American products. We shall cover the oceans with our merchant marine… Our institutions will follow our flag on the wings of commerce."

Albert J. Beveridge.
Indiana Senator and Expansionist, 1898.

Nearby, there was a section in the museum explaining the war against the Spanish in 1898. (I know it doesn't sound that interesting, but bear with me.)

Spain still considered Cuba as a part of Spain, and the Cubans wanted independence. America, understandably, didn't like colonials, so sided with the Cubans. Conveniently, the year previously - and again I quote from the museum:

April 7, 1897.

"Theodore Roosevelt, the new  Assistant Secretary of the Navy, has big plans to expand foreign trade and markets for American goods. They include a war with Spain over Cuba, a canal between the Atlantic and Pacific, and the annexation of Hawaii and other islands to create American ports around the world for refuelling and protecting American fleets.

Roosevelt: A Man With a Big Plan.

During the Cuban crisis, Rooselvelt has his eye on Spanish possessions in the Pacific; single-handedly he gets a fearless naval officer named George Dewey appointed Commander of the Asiatic Squadron. And when the war over Cuba is about to begin, Roosevelt sends a telegram to Commodore Dewey telling him to get ready to attack the Spanish at Manila and take over the Philippines."

 

The Battleship Maine as it started.

The USS Maine was a battleship moored in Havana harbour at the time. When it unexpectedly blew up, the US immediately blamed the Spanish, and war was declared.

The Maine as it ended up. This means war!

The Spanish were roundly defeated, and peace talks begin in Paris dividing up the spoils.

The Spanish don't look happy.

 Now do bear with me, because there is a point to all this history.

December 10, 1898.

"Spanish troops are ordered to leave Cuba, which is on a slow path to independence overseen by the United States. America gains control of Guam and Puerto Rico and pays Spain $20 million for the Phillippines. With this treaty, America becomes the dominant power in the Western Hemisphere and gains safe harbors for trade with Asia. Tension builds in the Philippines between the Americans and Filipinos who want their independence...

Filipinos standing up for their rights.

...After the peace talks, the Filipinos continue to fight for their independence, but now they face the Americans. A bloody American-Filipino War breaks out which lasts for several years."

There are estimates that as many as 126,000 American soldiers, or 3/4 of the U.S. army, were shipped to the Philippines, and at least 600,000 Filipinos died during the war.

It has been referred to as the 'first' Vietnam war; horrendous atrocities were committed on both sides.

(Unpleasant pictures showing that water boarding's an old art...)

Honest men of the Olympia, fighting for their country.

A letter was written by one of Olympia's crew during this war describing his feelings and thoughts about the war. The letter begins with these words:

 

"My friend O'Reilly says 'there's such a thing as principle in this war' and there is...

 

...Most of the boys want to get out of it because we know this war is not right and that these people are fighting for independence just as we did in 1776."

In 1902, America promised to prepare Filipinos for independence, which occured in 1946 - over forty years later. And there's the irony; the whole affair was supposed to be about freeing Cuba from Spanish rule. But I suppose by the end of it all Joe Public had forgotten how it started.

Remember the Maine, and the awful explosion that set off the whole chain of events?

Let's get the public worked up over this...

 "After it was all over, a detailed investigation decided the explosion was probably an accident."

Truth at the beginning may not turn out to be truth at the end.

 So when war is imminent, and the rhetoric is ramped up, it's wise to remember history.

Car Park Campsite.

 A quick one this time…

Travelling around it's not always possible or convenient to find a campsite for the night. We started off in a Home Depot car park, and have used a lot of others in our travels. For those who think it may be a little strange sleeping in a car park for the night, have a look at this. This is after a couple have set off in the morning.

As you can see, we're not the only ones - in this car park at least. We're not sure why it should be so busy this weekend, but suspect a lot of people who live in their RVs are heading down South for the winter to warmer climes.

I'm sure that if Southern Spain was a little warmer in winter, there would be the same migration in Europe...

The Miracle of Annapolis

After visiting the Capital of the US we travelled about 30 miles to the Capital of Maryland. Not very far to go, but a huge difference between the two.

It was once the Capital of both the Colony and the State, and one of the first planned cities in colonial America. It's named after Queen Anne, and her royal badge, with a crown over the entwined thistle of Scotland and Tudor rose of England, is on the Annapolis flag to this day. So it goes back a long way.

Before the Yellow/White house was this lovely building.

But that's enough of the history lesson. If you're desperate for more, here it is.

So are they saying quite a lot of important things happened here?

The most remarkable thing about Annapolis is that it's still here at all. Unlike a lot of other older places it's been saved from the developer, and a jolly good job too.

Original houses - and they haven't been moved anywhere - at all.

It was the creation of The Historic Preservation Commission in 1968 that made all the difference. If someone wants to make changes to the place, the Commission must review and approve all applications before a building permit can be issued. We take this sort of thing for granted in the UK with our planning laws, but here it's not usually so strict.

Made with a good old fashioned 18th century spirit level. Not sure about the numbering on the door.

To implement such a scheme in the sixties must have required a formidable amount of foresight, but the result is a testament to the people who had the vision.

The Maryland flag would look good at a jousting tournament.

It hosts a US boat show every year, which must help the revenues in the town. Also, being so close to Washington must be a bonus. Being less than an hour from the Capital, well heeled workers can escape to the more relaxed ambience of this old harbour town.

The Alex Hayley Kunte Kinte Memorial. Alex's ancestor arrived as a slave here, inspiring his book, Roots.

It's good to see he's doing his bit for commerce...

It's said that it has over four million visitors a year; Lord alone knows how this small town copes. It's also famously the location of the USA Naval Academy, but that sits outside the oldest part of town and doesn't intrude.






Walking the streets, we both commented on the plethora of wires and cables strung along the streets - not really in keeping with the 18th century.

I'm sure that to most Americans they're invisible, something they've grown up with and don't notice anymore. In the UK just about all street power lines are buried, and we find this aerial tangle  a bit of an assault on the eye.





But later, in the museum, we discovered that a campaign is underway to put the power lines in sensitive streets underground.

The future of the past is wireless.

As far as we're concerned it will be money well spent. After all, there is a difference between price and value.

No wonder the ambiance here is chilled.

Picture Pictures

As I've previously written, Washington has so much to offer it's difficult to choose what to see.

Good old George, who gave the city its name. Painted by Gilbert Stuart in 1821.

Diane and I wandered into a Smithsonian art gallery in the morning and didn't find our way out until the place was closing.

A waterfall wall in the cafeteria.

The buildings themselves are a delight, but what I couldn't get over was the fact that I could photograph the works of art.

I'm messing with Magritte. (It's a big picture.)

So, like the proverbial child in a sweetshop, I used the wonders of the digital age to photograph anything that took my fancy.

Diane's favourite picture.

Now I'm sure you'd love to know who painted all these lovely images, but we didn't think to get the names and details. We just enjoyed them.

You think they'd hang them straight...

So here I just present an artist guessing game. I'm sure you'll get at least some of them.

The Artist at work...

...the result. Robbie Williams with a new hairdo.

This picture was painted...

...with fingerprints.

This gallery alone could have taken up days of our time - there was so much to discover.

So thank you Mr James Smithson, your legacy is still inspiring folk nearly two hundred years after your death - as I'm sure you intended.

Something Fishy

During one of our "open top" bus tours in Washington we rounded a corner and saw below us on the shore line a jumble of market stalls, and we smelt the strong aroma of fish. We took the opportunity to hop off and explore. 

This little treasure is the Maine Avenue fish market on the banks of the Potomac. We've never seen so many varieties of fish displayed so beautifully - all of it fresh.

This was on a Sunday, and the place was full of activity. If this is what it's like every day of the week, I can't imagine where all this sea food comes from. Surely we must be running out by now?